She tapped her friend Reina Montenegro, who ran popular vegan Filipino spot Nick’s on Grand in South San Francisco, for advice on vegan products and tried making her calamansi pie with coconut condensed milk and vegan butter in place of their dairy equivalents. When 2021 hit, Melody Lorenzo, whose Filipino pie business Sweet Condesa has been skyrocketing since she started selling at the San Ramon Farmers’ Market last summer, decided it was time to make her desserts more inclusive of different diets. The extra effort was worth it, though, to fuel her mission. But it took a lot of time to create the right texture because okara flour, which is also gluten-free, is much drier than wheat flour. Removing dairy from the cakes wasn’t too difficult, she said, thanks to the proliferation of quality vegan butters.
Passionate about the environment and sustainability, Wang wanted to not just veganize the pineapple cake but also tackle food waste by using okara, a byproduct of the tofu-making process that normally gets thrown out. Taiwanese pineapple cakes fall into the latter category. While some traditional Asian desserts, such as mochi and sweet red bean soup, are naturally vegan, a lot of Asian bakeries line their cases with buns and other treats that are packed with eggs, milk powder, cream, butter and sometimes lard. Unable to easily locate satisfactory vegan alternatives and suddenly having much more time on her hands during the pandemic, Wang zeroed in on the soft, crumbly, jam-filled pineapple cakes that she regularly snacked on as a kid. Wang has been vegan for almost a decade, and over time she began to miss the sorts of meat-based dishes her family bonded over at dim sum restaurants. Biting into a nostalgic red bean bun “brings us back to that place like nothing else can,” Chan said. But creating these vegan treats also feels deeply personal - a way for these bakers to connect to their identity. All the while, vegan fast food is growing in the Bay Area, and businesses like Beyond Meat, Impossible Foods and Miyoko’s Creamery are fueling Millennials and Gen-Zers who care about sustainability, said Annie Wang, who launched Annie’s T Cakes in January.
Popular San Francisco spot Breadbelly and newer pop-ups such as Bake Sum and Jina Bakes have been filling Instagram feeds with kaya buns, kalbijjim croissants and okonomiyaki danishes. The rise in vegan Asian baked goods feels like a natural progression of two growing trends in the Bay Area: Asian-inspired bakeries and vegan eats. And the woman who has become locally famous as “the Pinay pie lady” will start selling vegan versions of her desserts at the end of March.
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Meanwhile, the pandemic spurred a home baker to launch Annie’s T Cakes, specializing in vegan and gluten free Taiwanese pineapple cakes.
That recipe testing gradually led to a pop-up, Tai Zhan Bakery in Los Gatos, which has recently seen increased demand thanks to a partnership with popular Oakland vegan restaurant Lion Dance Cafe. Wanting to raise her children with similar food memories, in 2017 the former Manresa Bread baker started tinkering with vegan versions of Chinese bakery classics.
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When Wendy Chan was pregnant with her first baby, she thought about her favorite childhood foods from Hong Kong-style bakeries: egg tarts, feathery green onion buns and pineapple buns with their cracked yellow cookie topping.
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